I was on the shores of Lake Tanganyika, on September 12, 2001, waiting for the school boat. It was not the place I thought I’d be when I would first hear of the worst tragedy of the young century. Yet there I was, on a combination of a honeymoon and Ian’s field season in Tanzania at Gombe Stream National Park. I was helping shepherd the school kids and chatting with the lead teacher when Kristen, an American photographer living in the park, came striding towards me. She stopped short and broke into my conversation, “Adrienne, something terrible has happened.” In the microsecond between the end of that sentence and her next breath, I clearly thought, “This is when I become a widow.” What else could she possibly be talking about? A researcher must have radioed back to camp that Ian had fallen off a cliff or been bitten by a deadly snake and now I was facing the world alone. When Kristen explained that the day before, the Twin Towers in New York had fallen, my mind simply could not turn in that direction. At that moment, we had no idea how or why the towers were gone and so perplexity morphed into disbelief, which gradually turned to horror as we sat huddled in her house listening to the news over the 12 band radio she had.
We struggled to comprehend what was being described to us in only words. A BBC film crew had left a satellite phone for Kristen’s partner Bill, who was shooting video for them, so I was able to briefly call home to check on my family in New Jersey- my brother who was a junior volunteer firefighter in town, my many friends who lived in the city, my uncle’s brother who was a New York firefighter. The outlandishness of sitting, staring at an African lake flickering with midday sun while listening to my mother describe the fighter jets soaring over my childhood home is one of the indelible images of that time.
I called Ian over the field radio but we decided he should finish his day in the forest. When he came home that night, he and I spoke in hushed tones and half-sentences. “Did you hear that…” “They think over 1,500…” and “It’s the same group who blew up… yeah, in Kenya and Tanzania.” We were headed into town the next day to pick up some important visitors and we discussed whether or not, in this predominantly Muslim region, we should say we were Canadian. Whether we should say anything at all. I wrote in my journal that night, “The carnage must be unimaginable. I am glad to be spared the images.”
The next day we took the boat into town, and stayed at a small hotel with a TV in the lounge. It was the first time Ian and I saw any of the footage of the attacks and we could only stand to watch for a few moments. I was too stunned to cry then and in the weeks following, as our days washed away on the shores of the lake, I was spared many of the iconic images that have come to be associated with Sept. 11th.
By the time we came home to Minnesota in November of that year, the worst had already been seen and seen and seen again by everyone. The media had moved on and so we were able to slide back into life without confronting the horror of the many, many visual reminders of that day of senseless destruction. What that has meant however, is that as each September passes, I grieve afresh at some image I hadn’t seen before. It is a powerful grief and I find I am often embarrassed by it- as if someone could rightly turn to me and say, “You lost so little, what is this noise? This carrying on?”
This tragedy happened now almost a quarter of my lifetime ago. This event will be filed by my children under the category of “historical events in the distant past” along with Pearl Harbor, D-Day and the Vietnam War. But for me it is, with each new unseen image, just as freshly shocking as the moment I first heard the news. And so, to this day, I continue to struggle with this strange, disconnected, disproportionate grief.